Table of Contents
1. Sustainable Fashion Materials & Which Fabrics Are Better?
2. Common Mistakes People Make
3. Mistake #1: Buying expensive fabrics instead of clothes that fit well.
4. Mistake #2: Buying clothes from brands that use fancy words.
5. Mistake #3: Expecting sustainable fabrics to perform the same as synthetics
6. Mistake #4: Believing shopping less is more sustainable than buying sustainable clothing
7. Choosing Sustainable Fabrics Based on Your Budget
8. Which Material Should You Choose?
9. Denim
10. Fabric Table
11. Buying Better Fabrics: Research Support
12. Beyond Sustainable Fabrics
13. Takeaway
Are you wondering what sustainable fabrics are best for the planet?
The truth about sustainable fabrics is that it depends.
If someone tries to give you a straight answer about which fabrics are best, they’re probably trying to sell you something. I’ve looked enough at fabric manufacturing to know that what something claims to do and what it actually does can be miles apart. Fabric is perhaps one of the biggest examples of this.
What does matter is that global fibre production reached 132 million tonnes in 2024 (Vogue) and the majority of that production is bad for the environment. Polyester production increased from 71 million tonnes to 78 million tonnes in 2024 and now accounts for 59% of fibre production worldwide (Vogue). Polyester is plastic clothing that will never biodegrade and gets sent to landfill or burnt when you’re finished with it.
Fortunately, there are sustainable fabrics out there. But you have to know what you’re looking for and what the tradeoffs actually are. A lot of “eco-friendly” fabric options perform poorly compared to conventional materials and cost 3 times as much. Other sustainable fabrics exist that work really well but have their own issues no one likes to advertise.
You need a comprehensive guide to what fabrics live up to the marketing and which ones are just expensive ways to trick yourself into buying new clothes.
If you’re new to questions about what your clothes are actually made of, you can check out our complete guide to sustainable living. It breaks down what areas have the biggest impact, where you should start and what you can tackle once you’ve got the hang of it.
TLDR;
| Fabric | Best For | Cost | Environmental Impact | Performance |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Better Cotton | Everyday basics, saving money | 10-20% more than conventional | Less chemical usage, much better than conventional cotton | Same performance as conventional cotton |
| Organic Cotton | Everyday wear that you’ll use a lot | 30-50% more than conventional | Great. Much better than conventional cotton | Slightly softer than conventional cotton |
| Linen | Summer clothes, items you’ll keep for years | 100-200% more than conventional | Very low environmental impact. Gets softer with age | Tends to wrinkle easily. Softens over time. |
| Hemp | Casual clothes you want to last | 50-100% more than conventional | Great for soil health. Extremely durable | Takes-on softness with use. One of the most durable fabrics |
| Tencel/Lyocell | Base layers, workout clothes | 40-80% more than conventional | Low impact if sourced responsibly | Great Fabric. Soft, moisture wicking, antibacterial |
Should Improve World take a commission on sales generated by these links
The Science Behind How Fabrics Impact the Planet
Image Source: Vogue
Why are certain fabrics worse for the environment? Well, let’s take a closer look.
Water Usage
Unless they’re made from polyester or another synthetic fabric, your clothes required water to grow, process, and produce. A lot of water.
Conventional cotton t-shirts can use around 2700 litres of water throughout their entire production process (The Guardian). Again, that’s not just the water to grow the cotton plants. That’s everything including the water used to process, dye, and finish the fabric. Most of our clothes are made in countries where water scarcity is already a serious issue, and a large portion of that water is contaminated with chemicals before it’s returned to the surrounding environment.
Microplastic Pollution
Just one wash of synthetic fabric can release thousands of plastic fibres into the water system. Synthetic fabrics cover our clothes, our homes (bedding and carpets), and our skin (activewear you can’t wash in a sweater.) Researchers estimate that 34.8% of all microplastics found floating in our ocean come from synthetic textiles (Ocean Conservancy). Every fleece jacket, every polyester shirt, every rain jacket.
They’re made from plastic. When washed they send millions of tiny plastic fibres into the environment which take thousands of years to break down.
Chemical Processing
Cotton might not be made from plastic, but it sure does use a lot of chemicals. Conventional cotton uses roughly 25% of all pesticides (PAN) and fertilisers ( Eco-Farming) on just 2.5% of global farmland ( Apparel Resources). But cotton isn’t done with chemicals after it’s harvested. There’s dyeing, finishing processes to make them resist wrinkles and stains and all sorts of other processes to make cotton feel softer or stretchier.
Synthetic fabrics fare only slightly better. Polyester doesn’t need pesticides and fertilisers to grow, but it is derived from fossil fuels and putster uses a wide range of chemicals to turn petroleum into fabric.
Carbon Emissions
Speaking of fossil fuels. Polyester production is energy-intensive and uses carbon-based materials at every step. Natural materials might not require fossil fuels to produce fibre, but they have their own carbon costs in production. Even naturally-derived fabrics like cotton and wool aren’t immune to carbon emissions.
Land Usage
Cotton is also one of the most prolific users of agricultural land, much of it grown as a monoculture and relying on intensive pesticide and fertiliser use. Fortunately, there are other natural fibres that can be grown with less intensive practices and help improve soil quality instead of degrading it.
Which Materials Are Better?
Okay, so how do you actually choose better fabrics? Let’s take a closer look at the common materials on the market today.
Better Cotton vs Organic Cotton
The biggest issue with cotton is water usage. Organic produces slightly less cotton per hectare, but better water management means they’re not using much less water overall. ( Organic Seed Farm)
The processing still uses tons of water and energy, but everything else about organic cotton is better. It’s grown without toxic chemicals that leach into local water supplies and generally uses more sustainable growing practices. Better Cotton uses 37% less water and 69% less pesticides than conventional cotton (Better Cotton). Better Cotton farming also focuses on improving soil health and reducing water pollution. Farmers who use regenerative agriculture practices can even use cotton to remove carbon from the atmosphere.
Most people have never heard of Better Cotton because it’s honestly in the middle ground between conventional cotton and certified organic cotton. It doesn’t have the rigorous standards of organic certification but goes beyond conventional farming practices to reduce environmental impact across the board. Better Cotton now accounts for 22% of global cotton production (Better Cotton), including 2.13 million licensed farmers who grew 5.47 million tonnes of Better Cotton in 2022-23 (Better Cotton). When shopping for clothes that aren’t expensive high-end fashion, look for Better Cotton before you worry about finding organic options.
Linen & Hemp
These two fabrics have extremely low water usage during production compared to cotton. Hemp can even be grown in areas where cotton does poorly due to heavy/moderate rainfall. It also improves the soil it’s grown in rather than depleting nutrients like most farming practices. Hemp can be grown without pesticides under most conditions.
Lincoln takes more resources to process into fabric, but otherwise it’s comparable to hemp. Both fabrics get softer over time rather than wearing out. Items made from hemp and linen last much longer than cotton, too.
Expect to pay 2-3 times what you would for decent cotton if you want high-quality linen or hemp clothes. It’s worth it if you really care about durability since items will last you longer. The tradeoff is that they’re both much rougher than cotton until they’ve been worn and washed multiple times.
Recycled Fabrics
Recycled fibres accounted for 7.6% of fibre produced globally in 2024 (Textile Exchange). The vast majority of that is recycled polyester from plastic bottles, not recycled textile waste.
Production of recycled polyester fibres from plastic bottles accounted for 6.9% of fibre produced worldwide in 2024. Only 0.8% was made from pre and post consumer recycled textiles (Textile Exchange). We’re making fleece jackets out of plastic bottles instead of recycling old clothes into new ones.
Now don’t get me wrong, taking plastic bottles out of landfills and giving them a new use is a fantastic way to reduce plastic pollution. But it doesn’t change the fact that your fleece jacket will still shed thousands of microplastic fibres every time you wash it. Recycled polyester may have started as an old pair of jeans, but by the time it’s turned into fleece it’s no better for the environment than brand new polyester.
Wait, Wool Isn’t Sustainable?
Wool definitely has an environmental impact. Where it’s produced matters enormously. When wool is produced using regenerative grazing practices it can actually have a net positive impact on the environment. Well-managed sheep farms can sequester carbon in the soil and improve soil health.
Worse practices like overstocking pastures and poor land management are just as bad for the environment as conventional cotton production. But there are benefits to wool that make it worth considering. Merino wool is durable as hell and naturally antibacterial so you don’t have to wash it as often. Items last longer because you wear them out rather than throw in the wash every month.
As with hemp fabrics animal welfare becomes an issue with wool production. There’s a reason “fearless farms” have you tracking their wool from pasture to sweater. Cruel practices like mulesing are common in some parts of the world.
Should you buy wool? If the brand you buy from is transparent about where their wool comes from and how it’s produced then the answer is probably yes. As with anything, there are good and bad wool producers. Your challenge as the consumer is to do the work to find ones that are good for the environment and treat their animals ethically.
Tencel and Lyocell
Lyocell and Tencel are essentially the same thing. Soft, natural-feeling fabric made from wood pulp using a closed-loop process that recycles almost all of the solvents used in fabrication. Tencel is more breathable than cotton, lightweight, and quite simply one of the better performing fabrics we’ve seen.
It has far less environmental impact than conventional cotton or polyester when produced correctly. Grown as a sustainable forestry crop that can produce more fabric per hectare than most cotton is nice bonus.
There’s a catch to both Tencel and Lyocell though. The fabric itself is fine, but in order for this to be truly sustainable the wood pulp needs to be sourced from responsible forestry operations and the fabric producers need to actually recycle the solvents they use (like they claim to.) A lot of “cheap Tencel” cuts corners on both of those.
You also need to check what other fabrics your clothes are made from. Most won’t be 100% Tencel or Lyocell because there’s no stretch. To get stretch Tencel brands will often add a bit of elastane (a rubber material that adds stretch.) That’s not a big deal for a sweater or jacket.
But you start adding polyester thread to sew the pieces together, nylon zipper and elastic for waistbands, and now your supposedly sustainable shirt isn’t actually sustainable at all. Use the materials list on clothing labels to double check before you buy.
Fabric Comparison
| Material | Best For | Cost | Environmental Impact | Performance |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Better Cotton | Everyday basics, trying to save money. | 10-20% more than conventional cotton | Significant improvement over conventional cotton. | Same as 100% cotton |
| Organic Cotton | Everyday clothes that you’ll use all the time | 30-50% more than conventional cotton | Great. Much better than conventional cotton | Slightly softer than conventional cotton clothes |
| Linen | Summer clothes, clothes that you’ll keep forever. | 100-200% more than conventional cotton | Very low impact. Gets softer with age. | Tends to wrinkle easy. Will soften over time. |
| Hemp | Casual clothes you want to wear for a long time. | 50-100% more than conventional cotton | Wonderful for soil health. Lasts an incredibly long time. | Takes-on softness as you wear it. One of the most durable natural fabrics. |
| Tencel/Lyocell | Base layers, athletic wear | 40-80% more than conventional cotton | Produces less waste if sourced responsibly | Excellent Fabric. Soft, moisture wicking, naturally antibacterial |
Common Mistakes People Make
You still think sustainable clothes won’t perform as well as regular clothes? Need proof? Here’s what happens when people try and buy sustainable fabrics that perform just like conventional cotton or synthetics.
Image Source: Once you love fabrics
I can’t begin to tell you how many ‘eco-friendly’ brands I came across who were using certified organic bamboo that wasn’t actually processed in an eco-friendly way.
Some companies use better materials but hide behind vague marketing language to charge you twice what someone selling regular cotton t-shirts would charge.
Organic doesn’t mean sustainable. Sustainable doesn’t mean ethical. Tags and certifications alone don’t mean your clothes are better for the planet.
Image Source: From Monica Ridgway on Unsplash
When I started this journey every piece of clothing I owned was unsustainable. Honestly, it was overwhelming as hell trying to replace all of it at once. I ended up buying cheaper clothes that wouldn’t last me very long just because I didn’t want to spend a bunch of money on better clothes.
The biggest problem was that I didn’t know any better. Buying cheap fast-fashion cotton is okay if you’re buying stuff that you will actually wear until they’re worn out. Turn those tags inside out and wear them until they actually fall apart. I wore plenty of cheap shirts that looked great but didn’t hold up to washing.
Buy better when you need to replace something. Stop buying clothes made from synthetic fabrics as soon as you can. But don’t feel like you need to go out and replace your whole wardrobe immediately.
Image Source: Rae Sherlock on Unsplash
Composting. There’s nothing wrong with your old clothes. They can’t be better because they’re old. But when I started this journey I felt bad because my new shirt was bamboo and my old shirt was polyester.
Silke trumped my guilt and asked what I was going to do with my old clothes. Throw them away? I literally just told her the landfills are overflowing while we argued about the ethics of buying clothes made from plastic bottles.
“Stop throwing away your clothes!” She laughed. “You can compost them!”
I wish I was joking but you can compost pretty much all of your old clothes. Natural fibres decompose. Synthetics don’t. Now when I have old clothes to replace I lay them out to see what I actually wear. Natural fibres get bundled up to compost. Synthetic fabrics get reused, donated to Art Council projects, or turned into cleaning rags.
Choosing Sustainable Fabrics On Any Budget
Remember how I said every person’s situation is different? Sustainable fabrics are no different. Here’s a basic guide for what you should prioritize when you’re working with different amounts of money.
When Updating Your Wardrobe Spend…
Under £100 per year:
Focus on replacing any synthetic fabrics as they wear out with Better Cotton alternatives. Spend most of your money on second hand clothes in natural fibres.
£100-300 per year
Shift towards organic cotton or hemp items for things you know you’ll wear all the time. Focus on building a collection of natural fibre basics that will last you for years, not seasons.
Over £300 per year
Grab some GOTS certified organic cotton, sustainable wool, and high-quality linen and hemp pieces. Focus on filling in the gaps in your wardrobe and only buy from companies that will tell you where your clothes come from.
If you spend more than this on clothes you’re either doing amazing things for charity or shopping too much. Pick one.
Fabrics vs Fabric Types
I want to be clear about something. Fabric types matter. Cotton is a much better choice than polyester. Linen or hemp will always perform better than cotton.
If you’ve done any research into this you’ve probably heard that too. But where most places screw you over is fabric types only make up half the battle.
Look at tags on clothes you own. Chances are, very few will be 100% one fabric type. Most are blends. Even the shirt your reading this on probably has some synthetic fibre mixed in to make it stretch or fancy thread used to sew it together.
Natural fibres that slowly biodegrade + synthetics that never decompose= neither of them will ever biodegrade.
Buying Better Fabrics: Research Support
Multiple articles show synthetic microfibres make up the largest source of ocean plastic pollution (Nature, Cosmetics Design). Research from the Environmental Research Foundation & Department of Ecology verified microfibres from synthetic fabrics are the most prevalent microplastics found in surface water ( Science Direct). Recycled polyester fibre was estimated to make up 34% of all polyester fibre produced by 2030 (UK Government).
Studies consistently demonstrate organic and Better Cotton reduce water usage and water contamination compared to conventional cotton ( Apparel Resources, Research Gate). Research from Southern Illinois University showed Better Cotton farm plans had significantly lower runoff.
Our own investigations found only 0.8% of fibre production is made up of recycled textile waste. The rest is plastic bottles being turned into polyester fleece jackets.
Further Reading
How microplastics impact our environment
Microplastics In Fabric Production
Complete Guide to Composting at Home
Beyond Sustainable Fabrics
Image Source: 𝕊𝕒𝕣𝕒𝕙 𝕊𝕚𝕝𝕜𝕖𝕤 on Unsplash
Ok, let’s say you only wear sustainable fabrics now. Don’t celebrate just yet.
garment is eventually made. Polyester produced in China with a lower carbon manufacturing process isn’t magically sustainable because it’s a natural fibre.
Sleeves has better resale value than Balenciaga. Buy clothes that fit you properly and will last for years instead of seasons.
Sewn with natural fibre thread and metal zippers instead of plastic ones that break.
Made of easily separable materials so when it does wear out you can recycle some parts and compost others.
Produced locally to reduce transportation emissions and support local businesses.
I know that’s a lot. But no one achieved sustainability overnight. Just start thinking about it when you go to buy something instead of buying whatever catches your eye.
Takeaway
I want to be clear about something. Buying sustainable clothes won’t solve every environmental issue. But we have to start somewhere.
Sustainable fabrics out there. Take your time to research different materials. Buy better quality items that will last you instead of buying tons of cheap clothes you’ll throw away.
Buy second hand when you can. It doesn’t matter if your shirt is made from recycled bottles plastic or bamboo fabric if you bought it new. Give them a second life before tossing them.
Learn to mend your clothes. Any natural fibre garment can be mended with enough time and expertise. Buying natural fibres gives you time to learn since they’ll last longer than synthetics.
Learn how to compost your old clothes. When they absolutely cannot be worn anymore you’ll have somewhere to put them instead of tossing them in the trash.
Just stop buying fast fashion polyester crap. Buy natural fibres as you need them. Wash洗得少a little less. Mend them when they need it. And repeat.
More resources & where to find better clothes
Complete list of foods that are (or can be) grown organically
Complete list of compostable items
